This wat (Map p79; Samdech Sothearos Blvd; admission free; 6am-6pm) is the headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism. It was founded in 1443 and com- prises 44 structures. It received a battering during the Pol Pot era, but today the wat has come back to life. The head of the country’s Buddhist brotherhood lives here, along with a large number of monks.
On the 2nd floor of the main building, to the left of the dais, is a statue of Samdech Huot Tat, fourth patriarch of Cambodian Buddhism, who was killed by Pol Pot. The statue, made in 1971 when the patriarch was 80, was thrown in the Mekong by the Khmer Rouge to show that Buddhism was no longer the driving force in Cambodia. It was retrieved after 1979. To the right of the dais is a statue of a former patriarch of the Thummayuth sect, to which the royal family belongs.
On the 3rd floor of the building is a marble Buddha of Burmese origin that was broken into pieces by the Khmer Rouge and later reassembled. On the front right corner of the dais on this floor are the cement remains of a Buddha stripped of its silver covering by the Khmer Rouge. In front of the dais, to either side, are two glass cases containing flags - each 20m long - used during Buddhist celebrations. The walls are decorated with scenes from the life of Buddha and were painted when the building was constructed in 1952.
Behind the main building is a stupa containing an eyebrow hair of Buddha with an inscription in Pali (an ancient Indian language) over the entrance.